I Don't Know Chinese


Traveling is hard.  Traveling with 2 kids and a husband is harder.  Traveling with all of those people relying on my plans in a country where I don't speak the language is sometimes even temporarily impossible.  Even in our daily lives, simple tasks like getting something copied or getting a bike repair can be cumbersome.  Thankfully, many of my daily tasks are made easier by the fact that all of our students take English classes and at least 90% are functional English speakers. 

Our arrival in Beijing was not so comforting.  I researched and weighed options vs. needs, hotels vs. hostels for a full 12-hr day on the computer before making reservations.  In America, I always attempted to achieve a balance between quality and price when we traveled.  Unfortunately in China, that balance doesn't always result in the circumstances I imagine or prefer.

After a late flight arrival, we lugged our luggage onto the subway in an attempt to get ourselves closer to the area of the hotel in order to save some taxi fees.  After more than 2 hours since our landing, having waited on baggage, made it to the subway, and moved ourselves across town, we thought we were close.  We started showing our hotel address (in Chinese) to the taxi drivers.  No one knew where it was!   We nervously stood on the side of  the road, flagging down taxi after taxi to be told they didn’t know where  to go.  When we finally found a driver who knew where to go, we were appalled at his 80 yuan taxi fare, but hey, it was late and were ready to be done for the day! (More on taxi rides in a future post) 

Driving down more and more twisty side roads, I was nervous about our destination.  When we reached the hotel, it had some variation of the name I had on my reservation form.  Jason didn't want to get out.  I did.  I didn't really care what this place was, I was just ready for bed!  We argued with the driver a bit, me in broken Chinese and the driver in broken English, trying to ensure we were in the right place.  Ultimately, we had found the right place, but the evening's obstacles weren't quite over.  At the desk, no one spoke English.  Now, I realize I am the foreigner here, and I don't expect...OK fine, maybe I'm a bit of a snob and have some expectation of English speakers especially in hotels.  It took more than 20 minutes for them to register our passports, obviously struggling with their layout and where to enter what information.  I mean, I have plans to see The Great Wall and the Forbidden City...If my hotel can't help fulfill my English requests, how in the world will we see Beijing? Man, that all-inclusive tour (with English guide) is taunting me in the back of my mind right now!  Ugh, reaching our room was a relief.  It was nice.  Big beds as promised, clean bathroom, hot shower.  Finally. 

Upon beginning our explorations the next morning, I came to realize just how "off" I had been in my choice of reservations.  Did I even LOOK at a map before booking this?!  We were in the heart of Chinese residence district in Beijing.  Small restaurants with only Chinese menus, small hometown grocers on each block where everyone stared upon our entering, high-rise apartments, and community recess areas on each corner.  Don't get me wrong, the area was beautiful.  Neat and clean, sidewalks, parks, trees - not like the parts of China I have seen so far.  But, I came to be a tourist, not a Chinese local.  After a breakfast of packaged bread and fresh fruit from the local grocery store, I sat down to study the map and try to make some plans.  We decided to make the best of our location but wanted to take the kids for a special afternoon at a Children's Emporium that my Frommer's listed as a family must-see.  We ventured back to the subway and made it across town, uneventfully, and found our way to our destination. 

Upon turning the corner onto Wanfujing Street, a famous pedestrian shopping street, I realized we'd found the heart of tourist China.  Restaurants galore - many with familiar names, information centers, and tour guides touting their services - in English!  Ahhhh. We enjoyed a wonderful afternoon shopping, researching tour options, having a familiar lunch at Subway.  At the end of this awesome street, we rounded a corner where I noticed the Novotel hotel.  Dang it!  That was my SECOND choice in hotels, but decided to go with "nice but affordable" instead of just "nice!".  Guess the premium was for location, location, location.

Well, this little English-speaking venturer was smart about one thing: I didn't pay the other hotel in advance!  SO, we spent a second night in China-ville, then packed our bags and booked it right on over to the Novotel!  After a rough two days getting oriented in Beijing, we spent the next three days in bliss!  We could see the Forbidden City from our 18th floor room, we saw The Great Wall on a spectacular day tour where we actually enjoyed blue skies - apparently a rarity, and were surrounded by English speakers everywhere, ready to serve our whims! 

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